Posted in travel

Praia do Barra cont.

The following day I decided to walk to Tofo. I had downloaded maps.me for offline directions, and so even without wifi I knew the way to town. I could either walk along the road (14km) or the beach (10km). 

It was a no-brainer: I had to walk the beach. 

I set out early I avoid the harsh midday sun. It was cloudy, thankfully, and I made good progress. But as I neared the lighthouse between Barra and Tofo beaches, I saw a big storm sitting over Tofo. It was a tough call – to go on or go back?

  
I decided to go on. I walked two km down the beach before the storm swept north and hit me hard. There was nowhere to hide. Just beach and dunes. I turned and reluctantly headed back, but when I got to the lighthouse the storm passed and I could see sun over Tofo again. 

I turned and walked back down the beach once again, arriving at a place called Dino’s Bar about 11:30, which was much later than I wanted to arrive. I was desperately thirsty and tired. 

After a brief beer and lunch, I continued on to explore the town. However, by now the sun was blazing. Very soon I could feel my skin burning and sought shelter. I visited a supermarket to buy cooking supplies, then another restaurant for a beer. 

About 3pm I tried walking back to Barra but the sun and fatigue were getting the better of me. I had to rest twice, and when I finally made it home I’d walked 25km. 

My feet were badly blistered and my shoulders scorched by the sun. The trip to Tofo had been a huge mistake and I hoped it wouldn’t affect the next days of my holiday. 

—-

Alas, the next days were spent in major pain and discomfort. My right foot became very difficult to walk on and my shoulders were burned badly so that sleeping was difficult. 

  
With no public transport nor any form of taxi, and with my foot turning black from the blister, I was trapped. 

I tried to relax and wait for the foot to heal, but I’m not good at relaxing. I kept waking small distances which turned into longer distances. Boredom drove me on. 

I was a little disheartened. I’d come to Mozambique to snorkel, yet the surf made it impossible. I couldn’t go to Tofo for activities because it was too far and the beach near my hotel was pounded by huge waves. I tried to sit and read but after a few hours I needed to walk about. It was frustrating. 

Also, I’d booked six nights at Palm Grove for some reason. 

I busied myself cooking dinner and reading, and walking to the nearby Neptune’s Bar, which was mercifully open. There I met other frustrated visitors who’d planned fishing trips which the waves had made impossible. 

After a few days I walked as far west as the beach went (near Pansy Island) and saw some flamingoes. 

 

 
On my last full day at Barra I ventured into the big waves to test out my new GoPro and the blister on my toe exploded. It was a miracle. Very soon after the foot began to heal and I set my sights on an escape from Praia do Barra. 

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Author:

I'm the editor of Beatdom magazine and author of Scientologist! William S. Burroughs and the 'Weird Cult'.

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